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<title>Advice for Gravity Fed Water System?</title>
<link>https://www.nationalforesthomeowners.org/forums/posts.aspx?topic=1566909</link>
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<lastBuildDate>Wed, 24 Jun 2026 09:27:31 GMT</lastBuildDate>
<pubDate>Mon, 15 Feb 2021 20:07:05 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>Advice for Gravity Fed Water System?</title>
<link>https://www.nationalforesthomeowners.org/forums/posts.aspx?topic=1566909</link>
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<description><![CDATA[<p>Hello Fellow Cabin Owners </p><p>I'm rehabilitating the spring fed water line at my cabin for minimal summer cold washing/cooking water use (not drinking) and would appreciate your advice, experience or Denver-area contractor recommendations.&nbsp; I have rights to a spring source across the gulch and the old damaged water line currently runs down to the stream, up the other side and under the county dirt road, and then another 150 feet up to the cabin. The source appears high enough to maintain pressure all the way to the cabin without a generator.&nbsp; I'd appreciate your advice mostly for the water line section from the stream up to the cabin. Specifically:<br></p><ul><li>Water reservoir - I plan to attach a new small water reservoir container to the cabin where the old water heater tank once stood. Recommendations for a small (30 gallon) reservoir container or system? Is it best to set the reservoir on a stand instead of mount to the cabin? How high does the reservoir need to be mounted to feed a kitchen and bathroom sink?&nbsp;<br></li><li>Line across the road - The existing line is buried but severed on both sides by the county road grader. I'd like to set up a temporary connection for that section instead that I can reel in after filling the water reservoir. Does anyone have experience using flexible reel-in hose (that could potentially withstand a car running over it) to temporarily run water?&nbsp;&nbsp;</li><li>Other suggestions, recommendations?&nbsp;</li></ul><p>Thanks all,</p><p>Kaye Mathews</p><p>1025 Hefferman Gulch Rd / Arapaho - Roosevelt National Forest</p><p>&nbsp;</p>]]></description>
<pubDate>Thu, 13 Aug 2020 00:17:31 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>https://www.nationalforesthomeowners.org/forums/posts.aspx?topic=1567105</link>
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<description><![CDATA[Kaye,<br />I am a bit confused about your description of your water "system" and the geography.  The water source is higher than the cabin across a gulch with a county road in between?  Water does not run up hill unless it is pushed from a higher elevation.  You can calculate water pressure by the elevation drop - 2.3 psi per foot elevation change.  I would put the cabin reservoir as high as possible to generate the most water pressure.  On a stand might work better because water weighs 7.8 pounds per gallon.  30 gallons is 234 pounds.  Maybe you can talk to the county about fixing the  pipe ends so you do not have to you a  hose reel.]]></description>
<pubDate>Thu, 13 Aug 2020 23:44:03 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>https://www.nationalforesthomeowners.org/forums/posts.aspx?topic=1567835</link>
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<description><![CDATA[Thanks for your informative response.  I've confirmed the spring source elevation with an altimeter app and it is much higher than the cabin intake.  I'll use your pressure calcuations to confirm flow.  In the meantime this year I'm installing a small reservoir in my loft for a simple gravity feed system until I can sort out all the springwater source issues.. Best - Kaye ]]></description>
<pubDate>Tue, 18 Aug 2020 22:06:49 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>https://www.nationalforesthomeowners.org/forums/posts.aspx?topic=1576009</link>
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<description><![CDATA[<p>If the old pipe beneath the county road is intact--meaning that you have one piece through the entire road base, you could consider pushing a smaller pipe through that one.  Then you can have a more permanent water system structure.  Be sure to install a drain valve at the lowest point and a shutoff valve at the spring so that the line is not damaged when the temperature goes below freezing.<br><br>Depending upon demand needs and the elevation change, you may not need a tank, particularly if you are the only user in that line.   In some cases with high pressure, you may need an expansion tank to mitigate knocks.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><p>Best wishes,&nbsp; &nbsp;Mark</p>]]></description>
<pubDate>Thu, 8 Oct 2020 03:36:26 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>https://www.nationalforesthomeowners.org/forums/posts.aspx?topic=1598913</link>
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<description><![CDATA[I hope you don't mind but I am going t piggyback on Kaye's question.<br /><br />My 1930's Montana off-grid cabin is gravity fed from a spring and travels a crazy distance (1/4 mile+) with far more water pressure than is required.<br /><br />I believe I have holes in the buried galvanized pipe which causes dirty water for washing (we don't drink it) and especially when it rains.<br /><br />Two questions:<br />1) Can anyone offer advice on a filtering system that could withstand the amount of water?<br />2) Has anyone had any success convincing the FS to allow me to put in new pipe?<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />Sincerely,<br /><br />Doug ]]></description>
<pubDate>Mon, 15 Feb 2021 21:07:05 GMT</pubDate>
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